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Lifting – Wrinkling, Raising, Alligatoring, Shrivelling, Swelling. Or, apply acrylic lacquer primer surfacer thinned with non-penetrating thinner, sand smooth and refinish.Or, apply waterborne primer surfacer, sand smooth and re-finish.Isolate affected area with two component primer surfacer and refinish.(Final sand with 400 or finer grit sandpaper). Sand sooth or remove the affected area.
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If any of these reactions occur, the following recommendations should be considered: Finishes susceptible to lifting will soften, wrinkle or shrivel as lacquer thinner is applied. Prevention: Check questionable finishes by rubbing a small inconspicuous area with a shop towel saturated with lacquer thinner. You’ll recognize it as a wrinkled area outlining a repaired area.Ĭause: Solvent from the new topcoat penetrates a solvent sensitive substrate causing a lifting or wrinkling that outlines the feather-edge. Identification: Raised or lifted edges in the wet or dry paint film that outline sand-throughs or feather-edges. Hopefully the following information will help some of us novice painters identify and with any luck rectify any situations that’d otherwise could have us tearing our hair out or tossing our spray guns in the trash bin. Much of this can depend on the painter’s craftmanship and experience. Factors in the paint process/working environment can also affect the end result such as humidity, temperatures, dry times, film thickness ect. So, it’s a good idea to learn some of the causes and cures.
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Incorrectly prepared substrates and use of paint materials can result in a flawed paint job and let’s face it we all make mistake. With this in mind, we decided to try and put together a bit of a primer (no pun intended) referencing some of the most common paint problems many of us have or will encounter during the course of any paint job or jobs. But this kind of tough when you’re a hobbyist who may only paint one vehicle a year. Painting is an art that’s perfected by practice. Whether its matching a colour for a repair or advising what materials are needed for a bare metal restoration, we believe our experience in Classic Cars is second to none.By studying paint defects, you can identify possible causes in the workshop or garage and help find solutions to avoid such problems in the future.
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Waterbase – Most modern cars are painted and refinished in Waterbase, a compliant Basecoat that contains water as well as solvents.įor over 20 years Car Colour Services have been supplying advice and materials to professional and amateur restorers alike. It will need flat and polishing to bring a gloss effect.
PAINT FX CAR BODY REPAIRS ACTIVATOR
Solid colours (not containing particles such as metallics) are available in 2K Acrylic, rarely can you get metallic and mica colours in 2K Acrylic.Ĭellulose – For Classic Cars, Cellulose does not require a lacquer for gloss, or an activator for it to dry. However this paint requires an activator/hardener for the paint to dry.
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Most popular and most likely if you car is a metallic.ĢK Acrylic – 2K Acrylic provides gloss direct from the gun and therefore does not require Clear Coat after. Basecoat is the paint, which requires a Clear Coat (Lacquer) to be applied after, to provide Gloss and Protection. If you are not sure which type of paint you require, please see here the main differences:īasecoat – Clear over Base.
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If you would like this free service and to find out more about our Colour matching service, the process, and what you need to do then please click here. Colour codes, names will only give us a starting point as the colour of the car will have changed from its original colour over all those years. If you are requiring paint for your Classic Car then most likely you will need a colour match.